Friends, Diving, and Whale Sharks

Whether you come to Panama for a month or 3 years, chances are that you’ll have a Panama to-do list.  Seeing ships pass through the famous Panama Canal, swimming in the tropical waters of Bocas del Toro, and sampling the world renowned coffee in Boquete are all popular activities, but with 2 years to spend, my to-do’s have been getting more and more specific.

As someone with a little more time and flexibility, I’ve been able to plan my trips around not only specific destinations, but also around the best times of the year to visit.  From once a year ferias to months long animal migration patterns, I’m happy to use my flexibility to my advantage and see a whole new side of Panama.  If you think you can see all of our little country in a week or two, you’re definitely doing it wrong!

Since neither Knoxville nor Pittsburgh is close to many diving spots, I’ve been dying to go ever since I got to Panama. After nearly 2 years of scoping out locations, prices, and marine migration timing, I finally got my chance.   For the past few months, 12 of my friends and I have been planning a SCUBA trip to dive with whale sharks and tons of other interesting marine life around Isla Coiba off the Pacific coast of Veraguas. 

Fun fact- “Ver aguas” means “To see waters” and Veraguas is the only Panamanian province that touches both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts.

Accessible via the popular surfing destination of Santa Catalina, Isla Coiba is a national park with some of the most beautiful beaches I’ve seen in my entire life.  To prove it, I haven’t edited any of the pictures in this post- it really is that beautiful!  Though at one point the island was home to a penal colony, the only current development on the island is a small ranger’s station and several cabins available for rent by ANAM, the environmental ministry of Panama. 

While Santa Catalina alone is worthy of a visit, we were there strictly for the SCUBA diving.  After a long day of travel, we enjoyed each other’s company and prepared for an early day of diving. 

Since most of our group was comprised of newly certified or beginner SCUBA divers, we were all a little anxious for the dives we’d be doing the next day- especially considering the dive shop’s slogan, “Sharks guaranteed!” Even though we were excited to dive with the giant but harmless whale sharks, the idea of diving with varieties that had pointier teeth was a little discomforting.

Since diving is always better in pairs or smaller groups, we separated into two boats and headed out to Isla Coiba, about an hour’s boat ride away from Santa Catalina, early the next morning.  Though I haven’t actually been diving in the ocean before (I was certified in the quarries of East Tennessee), even I feel pretty confident in saying that the diving in Coiba was incredible.  We swam through schools of hundreds of beautiful tropical fish, watched sting rays jump into the air, came within a few feet of peaceful sleeping sharks (small enough to be okay with me), and even found a seahorse bouncing around some coral! 

Even though my group didn’t actually get to see the whale sharks, we all had a great time and I would still highly recommend the area to both snorkelers and SCUBA divers, regardless of whether you can plan your trip around whale shark season J

Transportation to Santa Catalina 

Ideally, you’ll want to get a bus to Sona, Veraguas.  If you’re coming from Bocas though, you’ll need to take a bus to Santiago and then catch a Sona bus from there.  They leave about once an hour.  After arriving in Sona, walk to the Santa Catalina bus terminal (about 5 minutes down the road) and take the 4x daily two-hour bus to Santa Catalina.  The last bus leaves before 5, so make sure not to miss it!  Over all, the trip costs less than $5 each way. 

Diving around Isla Coiba

The good diving is all situated around Isla Coiba, about an hour’s boat ride away, so if you’re interested in going, you’ll definitely need to go through a diving company.  We went with Coiba Dive Center and were very happy with our trip.  Count on paying ~$150 for a 3 tank dive, all rentals and transportation from Santa Catalina included. 

Darien Part 2: Taimati + Cemaco

It didn’t take me very long to experience the beautiful yet frustrating transportation situation that faces many of the Darien volunteers- boats, and unreliable ones at that.  On our first day we knew we needed to take a ~2 hour boat ride to Taimati and were told that the boat, which leaves only once per week, would likely leave around 8 am.  Shortly after 9 am, we set off… only to purposefully beach ourselves about 30 minutes from our destination so that we could wait for high tide to roll in.  A 2 hour mid-trip delay isn’t exactly convenient, but when you spend that delay stuck at a beach exploring mangroves and drinking fresh coconut water with friends, it doesn’t seem too terribly bad. 

Shortly before 2 pm we arrived in Taimati and the massive food onslaught began.  Having spent my first few months in site going hungry most days and losing 15 pounds from not getting fed, getting this type of treatment from host families and locals was great.  Austin even told me that sometimes he gets two lunches a day! 

After exploring the beaches of Taimati and getting to know some of the neighbors, we spent the next day visiting Matt in Cemaco.  Even though the two towns are only a 30 minute walk apart, they’re really different.  Whereas Taimati is a mostly latino town that’s slightly more developed with cement houses, electricity, and parks, Cemaco is a Wounan village that reminded me a lot of what mine might look like if all of the houses were centrally located. 

Before we knew it, it was December 8- Mother’s Day.  Mother’s Day is arguably one of the biggest holidays in Panama and many towns celebrate with communal dinners, dances, and gift giving.  I was a little sad to be missing out on my own site’s Mother’s Day festivities, but most of that sadness went away when Austin’s host sister brought us back a plate of food from the party- fried rice with beef, potato salad, apples, and cake.  And that was on top of the already large lunch and dinner that had already been cooked for us! The locals gave us a good excuse for eating all that food though- we were going to need the energy for our big hike coming up the next day! 

Friends, Food, and a Panamanian Thanksgiving

Only the best busses sell ice cream cones

Since our Close of Service is rapidly approaching, I´ve been starting to work on cultivating a deeper post on how grateful I am for the impact Peace Corps has had on my life.  So instead of getting too deep, I´m going to save that for another time and instead share a little about the awesome Thanksgiving celebrations I was able to have here in Panama. 

As per Peace Corps Panama tradition, a majority of volunteers made the trek up to Cerro Punta, Chiriquí to celebrate Thanksgiving as a giant, happy, Peace Corps family.  After some of my busiest, sickest months yet, it was awesome to have the opportunity to spend a few days relaxing and celebrating with some of my closest friends. 

Carlos, the owner of Los Quetzales Eco-Lodge, was wonderfully accommodating and gave us all wonderful deals on accommodations, food, drink, and spa services.  My friends and I rented a cabin with stunningly beautiful views of the surrounding rainforest, and I couldn´t not take advantage of $20 hour-long massages…

 With the help of our master chef, Brennan, we created a delicious and mostly locally sourced Thanksgiving feast of roasted turkey, baked ham, cranberry stuffing, sweet potato and lentil curry, mashed potatoes and gravy, green bean casserole, salad with cornbread croutons, chocolate cupcakes, and fruit tarts with a homemade custard filling.  Talk about a bule kri…full belly! 

 

 

Our incredible Thanksgiving dinner

We also had a talent show that was surprisingly packed with talented, well thought out acts such as a hip hop take on a traditional dance and a Panama PCV´s 12 days of Christmas:

On the first day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- a parrot in a pifá tree!

On the second day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 2 Many catcalls…

On the third day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 3 Meetings cancelled…

On the fourth day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 4 Quarts of Clos (the cheapest wine)

On the fifth day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 5 Days of School in November!

On the sixth day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 6 Pavos shouting…

On the seventh day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 7 Swines a Sqealing…

On the eighth day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 8 Outfits molding…

On the ninth day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 9 Nipples nursing…

On the tenth day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 10 Turtle eggs a frying…

On the eleventh day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 11 Random rashes…

On the twelfth day of Christmas my PanaMan gave to me- 12 Poops a day…

Obviously, a good time was had by all and tears were almost shed when we realized that this would be our last Thanksgiving together as Group 73.  Thankfully we still have almost 8 months left in country. 

And because one incredible Thanksgiving wasn´t enough, Part 2- Group 75´s Friendsgiving- followed a few short days later. Sadly, due to the initial 3 month travel ban which just barely encompassed Thanksgiving Day, our newest group of awesome volunteers, Group 75, was not allowed to attend the annual celebrations in Cerro Punta.  Since they´re a positive and super fun group, they decided to make the most of a potentially sad situation and organize their own Friendsgiving in Panama City.  They even invited some of us old volunteers (we´re almost the seniors now!) and since I was passing through in preparation for my trip to the Darien- more on that to come- I was able to spend some time celebrating a second time. Even though we couldn´t be at home celebrating with our families, I think I can speak for everyone in saying that our Panama Thanksgiving was pretty dang awesome.  

Missing Out: When Life Abroad Interferes with Life Back Home

Since moving abroad to start my new job as a Peace Corps Volunteer a year and a half ago, I’ve become well-acquainted with what some travelers refer to as FOMO- Fear of missing out.  It seems a little bit contradictory: I moved abroad to avoid missing out on a fulfilled, adventurous life doing work that matters for people I love, but here I am feeling like I’m missing out? 

If you’ve ever lived abroad, for any period of time, I’m sure you understand where I’m coming from, but if not, I’m going to try and put it into words as best as I can.

I love where I’m from in the United States.  In both Knoxville and Pittsburgh (and a few other places throughout the country) I have wonderful, supportive friends and family who I love and enjoy being with.  In Panama I have a great job that lets me learn, explore, and put my skills to use in a great way.  Geographically speaking though, I physically can’t have both at the same time.

Choosing to live abroad- or any place far from home- means that you’re going to have to give up things and experiences you’d otherwise have been happy to have.  Sure, sometimes I miss physical things or places, but the thing that makes living abroad the hardest for me is knowing that I can’t be with the people I love all the times I’d love to be. 

Going home is always an option, but it comes at a price.  Depending on distance and cost, every expat draws his or her lines at different points, but it’s never easy.  Would I love to be home for every birthday, graduation and important event?  Absolutely.  If travel weren’t an issue, I’d be there in a heartbeat.  Unfortunately, that’s not possible. 

And that’s where FOMO sets in.  Today my family is throwing a giant party for my grandma’s 90^th birthday, in November my little sister is turning 21, and don’t even get me started on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and all the little things that make life and relationships what they are. 

When I do have internet, I love catching up on my family and friends’ lives back home.  Some are in new relationships, others have new jobs, and even if nothing huge has changed, their lives are continuing in a beautiful way.  Simultaneously, I love and hate facebook, instagram, twitter, and every other media outlet that shows me glimpses of what I’m missing. 

I’m trying to have as much of both worlds as best as I can, but that’s certainly a challenge.  I try to talk with loved ones back home as much as I can, and the ones I’m truly close to try just as hard (if not harder!) to keep me in the loop with their lives as they learn about mine. 

We’re living completely different lives nearly 2,000 miles apart, but that’s what helps me keep my fear of missing out in check- friends and family who care enough to support me where I’m at for now.